Cartier at the V&A: from Queen Elizabeth's diamonds to Grace Kelly's rings, it is impossible not to swoon

It could have been the case that walking through the V&A’s Cartier exhibition, which is sponsored by the 1847-founded jeweller, would feel like a foie-gras force feeding of brand propaganda — with intentions of selling visitors a Tank watch in the gift shop.

Mercifully, this is far from the case with thanks to intelligent curation by Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, who successfully deliver a luxurious deep dive into the jeweller’s rich and sprawling international history, while benefiting from some absolutely spectacular jewels. They are impossible not to obsess over — from the late Queen Elizabeth’s mammoth 23.6 carat pink diamonds to Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco’s engagement ring and Princess Anne’s Pineflower tiara.

There are flamingo brooches owned by the Duchess of Windsor, show-stopping gemstone necklaces commissioned by Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala and floods of “Tutti Frutti” (a signature pick-and-mix of emeralds, rubies, sapphires, diamonds and onyx) designs that look, in spotless glass cabinets, like the contents of of an old world confectionery shop. What’s not to love?

The exhibition, which takes over the Sainsbury Gallery, opens with the rather magnificent Manchester Tiara, made in 1903 for the Dowager Duchess of Manchester. This sets the scene for Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier, who would go on to reap inspiration across the globe to grow the family business.

Featuring more than 350 objects, it showcases the results of the brothers travels, with results ranging from Egyptian sarcophagus vanity cases, gobstopper emerald covered in rubies from India and jewelled mirror stands based on artefacts from Japan.

Attention is paid to signifying Cartier staples and a peerless history in watch-making is traced. Visitors will be blown away — thanks to the generosity of private collectors, the Royal household, and Cartier’s own unparalleled collection — by the room focused on the importance of close client relationships.

It does well to touch on the brand’s remarkable craftsmanship – do take a moment to watch the film, which demonstrates just how intricate it is to bejewel their famous panthers — before royalty gives way to Hollywood legends, and Cartier’s grip on cinematic history is celebrated; from Rudolph Valentino showing off his anachronistic Tank in The Son of the Sheik, 1926, to Gloria Swanson in Art Deco cuffs in Sunset Boulevard, 1950.

As might have been expected, one ends this rhinestone romp on an explosively-diamond heavy note, with the temptingly named tiara room. 18 jewelled bands, which remained fashionable in England far longer than the rest of the world, float in groups of three demanding whatever is left of your awe.

You’ll leave wishing they were as popular now as they were in 1937.

Cartier at V&A South Kensington, 12 April-16 November 2025, from £27, vam.ac.uk